Planning your Stay - A Brief Guide

Introduction | Things to do Pt.1 | Things to do Pt. 2


Things to do (Part 2)

Khadi

Khadi is hand-spun yarn, which is then hand-woven. It has a cultural significance in India, as the plight of the hand-weavers, made destitute because of the introduction of factory made alternatives, was championed by Mahatma Gandhi.

Khadi can be cotton, cotton/polyester or silk (woollen Khadi is found in North India). Cotton Khadi is like linen. It has the astonishing quality of being cool in summer and warm in winter.

There are two Khadi shops in Mysore. The official government one should be visited for its interior, which displays portraits of the leaders of the Independence Movement. Next door the Tirupar Khadi store offers a much more sophisticated range, including fancy silk weaves in vegetable dyed colours. The location of the Khadi shop in Lansdowne Building is interesting: there are typewriter Walla's who will write letters for you.

Other Shopping

Mysore is best known for silk but other specialities include a sweet known as Mysore Pak, which is like fudge. Good purchases also include Titan watches, sandalwood soap, incense, and essential oils which are best bought from the Cauvery.

Clothes made in India for the western market (brands such as Levi's, Lee and Adidas) are found on the Deverajah road.

The State Carvery Shop offers brass statues, silk and intricately inlaid furniture, all at reasonable prices. Keep an eye out for the pretty 50's-style embroidered linen table clothes.

Jewellery

Gold is sold by weight (more expensively than in the U.K.), but the workmanship is thrown in free!

If the elaborate jewellery is to your taste then enjoy! One word of warning - the earrings and nose studs have thick posts compared to the west, and it might be sensible to ask the jeweller to put on a finer post.

Many people buy rows of sapphire or emerald beads. Guests have recommended the jewellers in the Southern Star. Hyderabad is the centre of the world’s pearl industry and one can find pearls in Mysore as in most Indian cities.

Look out for ‘sale-exhibition’ signs. This is quite a respectable way of selling goods. If sales are in five star hotels the prices will generally be high.

Bargaining

Some places have fixed prices but certainly higher than expected. In tourist areas the price is probably three times what is hoped for (it might be ten times but you can generally tell when it is really ridiculous). Some people want to bargain fiercely. They get more pleasure from the notion of getting a bargain than from the purchase itself. There is no point getting into a state about being overcharged, generally prices are very low compared to home, and people here need the money more than the visitors. Pay what something is worth to you. People who concentrate on the bargaining generally end up with things they do not necessarily want or like, because they managed to knock the seller down in price. Prices in the state shops are fixed. Note: Cauvery Emporium; UP Handloom; Co-Optex; Silk Factory; Khadi shops and most fabric shops.

Auto Rickshaws

Drivers should, by law, use the meter. If they do not but insist on a special pre-arranged price it is up to you to decide whether to use the rickshaw or not. As a guideline, the fare to the city centre is 16 rupees, so reckon 20 rupees with tip! The fare to the railway station is about 30 rupees. If you hate the bargaining use the hotel's reception to get the rickshaw and fix the price for you.We can arrange to hire a rickshaw for you by the day, or half-day. This will cost 300 rupees plus a mileage charge for the full day, for the usual sightseeing in Mysore.

Mysore has 16,000 auto-rickshaws! Rickshaw drivers supplement their income by receiving tips from hotels, restaurants and shops, to whom they bring custom. Guests asking to be taken to the Green Hotel may, to their surprise, be told "don't go there, I'll take you somewhere better/cheaper/nicer". The rickshaw driver may claim not to know the location of the Green Hotel -tell him it is at the former Premier Film Studios, that usually does the trick. Some guests find themselves taken to Green's Hotel.

The rickshaw drivers are not actually aggressive -just be firm! Similarly, do not be too embarrassed to say you do not want to go to a shop or restaurant he wants to take you to. Remember you have hired the rickshaw, not he you!

Tonga's

We can hire you a horse and trap with driver! Ask at the reception. This is a very interesting way to travel around the city. Tonga drivers are very poor so we like to give them the work.

Trips out of Mysore

A trip out of Mysore is not just interesting because of the destination: the journey itself provides opportunities to see much of Indian life on the roads.

The Bird Sanctuary

Very tranquil, full of birds, with a large lake. A trip to the Bird Sanctuary can be combined with one to Somnathpur or Srirangapatnam (though many guests like to spend a day at each rather than combining). Watch out for the crocodiles!

Somnathpur, Belur and Halebid

The Hoysala dynasty ruled southwestern Karnataka between the eleventh and thirteenth centuries. From the twelfth century onwards they built a series of distinctive temples centred primarily at three sites:

Somnathpur

About 20 miles from Mysore. A marvellous 13th century Hoysala temple, with extraordinarily fine sculptures. Very well preserved and maintained.

Hassan

This is about 118km from Mysore and makes a useful base for seeing the Hoysala sites at Belur and Halebid.

Halebid

This is 32km northwest of Hassan, and was once Dora Samudra, the capital of the Hoysala dynasty. There are several large Hoysala temples, two of which are covered in exquisite carvings. A small archeological museum (open daily except Fridays), adjacent to the Hoysaleshvara temple, houses a collection of Hoysala art and other finds from the area.

Belur

37km from Hassan on the banks of the Yagachi. Belur was the Hoysala capital prior to Halebid, during the eleventh and twelfth centuries. The Chennakeshava temple is a fine and early example of the Hoysala style. The quantity of sculptural decoration, if less mature than in later Hoysala temples, is staggering.

Melkote

30 miles from Mysore, a centre of Sanskrit learning. A temple town (or large village) with a thousand year old temple and a wealth of 'tanks' (beautifully constructed ponds). A lovely place for a picnic (ask at reception for one to be packed for you).

The drive to Melkote (taking approx. 1 hour 30 mins), is very picaresque.

Coorg

Visit the Buddhist Monastry at Bylakuppe.

Visit the Friday market at Madikeri -the capital of the region.

The journey there is pleasant -through hilly, wooded areas with tea and coffee plantations.

Bandipur National Park

Jeep and elephant rides to see wildlife. Some unreliability as to whether the rides take place or not on any given day so check first.

Suggestions for a week or fortnights long stay in Mysore:

Day 1: Recover from journey! If up to it, visit market.

Day 2: Yoga lesson. Early swimming. Visit palace (and the art gallery). Visit the Chalmundi Hills in the evening.

Day 3: Yoga lesson and early swim. Visit Srirangapatnam and the bird sanctuary.

Day 4: Yoga lesson and early swim. Visit to silk factory. Ask tailor to visit.

Day 5: Yoga lesson and early swim. Somnathpur.

Day 6: Yoga lesson and early swim. University Ethnography museum (allow an hour or two).

Day 7: Yoga lesson and early swim. Ayurvedic massage and lazy day.

Day 8: Yoga lesson and early swim. Melkote temple and picnic.

Day 9: Yoga lesson and early swim. Day trip to Buddhist temple and settlement, and visit to Madikeri.

Day 10: Yoga lesson and early swim. Lalitha Mahal -combine with lunch and a swim.

Day 11: Yoga lesson and early swim. Shopping down the Devarajurs Road, the Cavery Emporium and market area.

Day 12: Yoga lesson and early swim. A stroll around the market and town. Visit Brindavan gardens.

Day 13: Yoga lesson and early swim. Day trip to the nature reserve at Bandipur for elephant ride and jeep rides.

Day 14: Yoga lesson and early swim. Do more of what you've loved doing.

Of course, you might want to just sit under the trees, read a book, sip lime sodas (or gimlets), play a little gentle croquet and meet the other guests.

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